etnies UK surfer John McCarthy, also of Lahinch Surf School fame in Southern Ireland, has been representing etnies alongside Irish Champions Cain Killcullen and Easkey Britton. Here's his account of the most recent massive swell to hit Aileens. Photos by Mark Alex.
We got up at 4am that morning to launch the ski 1 hour south of Lahinch to surf a left handed slab. We got the ski in the water while it was still dark and got the call that the place was actually unsurfable because of the size of the swell. It was one of the biggest swells I've seen in a long time. On the way home we saw 30 foot plus faces on waves on all the points approaching the cliffs of Moher. Checked the waves from the top of the cliff only to see it perfectly lined up and barreling. A few prayers later we launched in Doolin the surf was just huge there. Over the next four hours an epic session went down. On my second wave I tried to dive over a close out wave on the inside and got sucked over the falls and washed onto the rocks. A few jetski's also got washed into the rocks but we managed to resurrect them all. Everyone survived it was a memorable day surfing, in the middle of summer.
The info behind this wave..
After I got that wipeout early on, it took the fear away a bit, so I started to get a bit more adventurous and started surfing, setting up a bit more critical and looking for barrels on the inside. I think this is the biggest unbroken wave I've done a carve on, it feels a lot like snowboarding but if you hang around for too long the mountain starts to chase..”